Monday, 7 July 2008

Logiehead. One step closer to E1.

Saturday 5th July 2008

Up early on Saturday for the long journey to Logiehead on the Moray coast, via Forfar, Drumlithie, Aberdeen, then finally the car park at Portsoy.

Bit of a walk in, but it was a lovely day, with amazing views along the Moray coastline.

Once around the coast, we were surprised to see a familiar face. Sonya (one of my irregular climbing partners) and her friend Chris were already at the base of the cliffs, feeding up after a session on the wall.

I was highly impressed by the quality of the rock face, and it's setting against the moray coastline. The rock looked solid, and there were plenty of natural lines, with an encouraging number of obvious gear placements (always reassuring!)The left side showing bladderwrack and Sea urchin

I started the day with a route called Bladderwrack (Sev 4b), which was a brilliant introduction to the rock, and a great warm up (physically and psychologically!).

Alan lead Sea Urchin (HSev 4b), only a metre to the right of bladderwrack. I chose not to second it as i wanted to bag it clean on lead, which i duly did later in the day. Lovely route!

After some food and belaying others, i watched Amanda lead her first E1 of the year, Dave's Dillema (E1 5b). Mel and I decided to second up the route, both relishing the chance to have a go at an E1. Mel went first, with me brining up the rear. i got the short straw, with the majority of Amanda's gear on my rope. Not normally a problem, but the gear was in all of the important hand holds, so it made for an interesting struggle up. Well done Amanda, great climb!!!

After managing that, i felt i should step up a grade and tackled Poacher (VS 4b). The more i climb VS, the more i realise i can do it with little technical difficulty, instead being limited by my head. Must sort that out!

Slightly nearer the sea, showing Poacher (VS)

Last route of the day was to 2nd Alan up the intriguing 'That is the question' (HVS 5a). With an initial thuggy start, it was a committing route, but with one bomber cam below the overhang, it was reasonably well protected. The crack line above was interesting and made for a challenging climb. Well done Alan!

The more i climb trad, the more i like it.

Dave, the jumper and beard are becoming comfier by the day...

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