Tuesday, 27 May 2008

Back to the Glen...

Friday 23rd May 2008

Back to the Glen...

It was with some trepidation that I waited for Ellis to pick me up on a cloudy Friday afternoon. We were headed back to Glen Clova. I hadn't been there for over a year, with my last trip ending in a 4 hours ordeal on one of the classic routes in the glen.

A moutainside crag, with views to beat the Lake district, the 'Glen' is popular with Dundee, Angus and Aberdeen based climbers for it's high quality routes, ease of access and scenery alike.

Could be the lakes...

On the way up, Ellis let slip that his ambition for the night was to climb 'Proud Corner', the very same three star VS 4c that i spent 4 hours on! Arriving at the roadside carpark, Ellis and I looked up the hill to the expanse of rock and located Proud Corner on the lower Southwest sector of the Cliffs.

After a 15 minute tab up the hill to the base of the rockface, it was clear that Proud corner looked no easier than it did over a year ago. Little was said whilst sorting the gear out, both of us preparing ourselves mentally for what was going to be an 'exciting climb'!

Proud Corner

All set up, Ellis lead the first pitch of the climb easily, and made his way confidently onto the harder second half of the climb. Watching him closely on the thin top 3rd, i knew what must be going through his head (what am i doing here, where is the protection, where are the fecking handholds?). Reaching the crux (a bold 8m section with minimal pro, and delicate climbing), he climbed calmly and securely before reaching the top and dissapearing over the lip to set up a belay.

I scampered up the climb, and onto the hard section, where i remembered exactly how delicate the climbing was, and how i'm glad Ellis had lead! Through the crux, and over the top to see Ellis sporting a grin that a cheshire cat would be proud of!!! Welldone that man!

I ended the night by leading 20 minute route (Normally a moderate), taking a direct line up the left edge of the Crag, resulting in an interesting climb graded at Severe.

All in all a great night!!!

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