Spent last night at AWV with a big crow of fellow climbers.
Decided i really must concentrate on using my time indoors to REALLY train, and not just maintain my current climbing level, so ignored the top ropes and just bombed straight onto lead climbing for the first 2 hours.
After a few warm up 6a's, i decided to tackle a 6c lead that i dogged last week, and now knowing the crux, sent it clean! What a feeling. After a break, right back onto another 6c (possibly 6c+), where i was defeated on the crux because of a combination of my relatively (relative to an orangutan!) short arms and my poor head game.
Took a couple of minutes to firgure it out and clear my head, then i smashed through it with little problem. Just wish i could do that without faffing around. Really must work on my head!
After another rest, it was onwards and upwards onto the overhanging wall for a shot at a crimpy 6b+. Lovely route, that i usually really enjoy, but the two previous climbs had sucked my arms of most of the their energy, so i came of a couple of times, but i know that i can clean it with fresh arms.
That was the meaningful lead climbing over for the night. My arms were shot, and with no chance of any decent leads, Dave, Ellis and I resorted to some reps, building up that deep burn in our shoulders, arms, wrists and fingers, literally until we could hang on no more.
What a great way to finish a night!